Sunday, April 12, 2009

Pio Cesare Barbaresco 2000

I really like Nebbiolo. Grown mostly in Italy, and Piedmont in particular, it is the grape behind Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara, and Ghemme. It tends to be quite tannic, requiring bottle age and showing best with food. It is apparently quite finicky about soil conditions and microclimate, among the first to bud and the last to ripen. Despite its fame and prestige, it represents well under 10% of plantings and production in Piedmont. Probably because of that fame and prestige, we unfortunately do not find a lot of “value priced” Nebbiolo.

This Barbaresco is more rustic than elegant; a wine with a lot of oomph. The nose is lush, with lots of licorice, stewed berries, violets, dried flowers, spices, leather, and tar. It is full and clear on the palate, and very long, with dry, mouth-puckeringly firm tannins, especially on the finish. It is delicious, excellent value at $40, and probably young yet, so it is too bad that is no longer available at ANBL.

Price: $40
Score: 93
Value: 4/5
Region: Italy
Alcohol 14.5%
Grape: Nebbiolo
Tasted: March 2009
UPC: No longer listed

6 comments:

  1. I have had this vintage a couple of times and had to return 2 bottles because they were corked. At the previous sale when the 2000 and 1999 went on sale I noticed that most of the wines had leakage around the foil. I am glad you got a good bottle.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Speaking of leakage around the foil, I'd always been tempted by the 2004 Ch. de Beaucastel CDP - 96 rated from WS - available at Prospect St. However, many of the bottles showed a raised cork and/or leakage around the foil - signs of excessive heat exposure. Since I expect that the whole shipment had been cooked, not just the the bottles that showed obvious damages, I decided not to risk the $100.

    Then, last time I looked, I noticed that all the obviously defective bottles had been removed. I can only presume this was so that no one would realize that the shipment was defective. I was extremely unimpressed. ANBL is very good about taking back defective bottles, but this is the kind of thing that people are likely to lay down for years. If they are going to sell that shipment - especially at full price - they really should put a warning on it.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Year I saw those tear drops of wine down the side of the Beaucastels, especially the mags at almost $200. I mentioned it twice but but no one seemed to care.

    ReplyDelete
  4. With the Barbaresco, we noticed at the sale that many of the bottles had raised corks and evidence of leakage; but we had quite enjoyed it at a tasting and decided to take a risk. We chose a bottle that looked undamaged, and happily, it worked out.

    ReplyDelete
  5. we have two in the cellar with corks that are a small bit elevated. perhaps it is time to try one. i take it that nbliquor will still accept returns on discontinued wines that are corked?

    ReplyDelete
  6. I believe they take returns on discontinued wines - once the wines are opened they don't try to resell them. But if you don't have the receipt, there might be an issue as to how much you paid for them.

    ReplyDelete