Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Tormaresca Bocca di Lupo 2003

I love this wine. Kelly says it's a manly kind of wine, and I'm a manly kind of guy, so maybe that's why. The nose is clean and elegant yet powerful - minerals, leather and violets. Well ok, it doesn't exactly smell like that, but that's what it reminds me of. It's got great structure and mouthfeel. The tannins are grippy but not at all harsh. Not a fruit driven wine. It reminds me of the Bouscassé Vieilles Vignes and in a different way it reminds me of a Barolo.

Wine Specatator gave it an 88, but noted that it "needs bottle age" and they tasted it more than two years ago. It must have developed, because right now this wine absolutely deserves more than that. With that said, while there's lots of interest and complexity here, when you look at the score keep in mind that this is probably my favourite style of wine. But this is an excellent example of the style and Kelly gave it the same score independently after tasting it blind. Here's her note: "Inky purple. Lush nose of violets, anise, plump blackberries, leather, tar. Same flavours are round and smooth on palate, with lots of anise, extra-firm and persistent tannins. Very long."

This is more in the old world style, but it could very well appeal to those who like a big new world wine. And if you do like the style, it's great value. (Note that Castel del Monte is in Puglia, inland from Bari, near the border with the province of Basilicata.)

Update Jan 2009: I tried another bottle with friends. While we all enjoyed it, the consensus score was a 91. I think this second score was more accurate and I was just more in the mood for that style of wine the first time I tried it. With that score I'd give it a 4/5 for value.

Price: $33.79
Value: 5/5 - 4/5 (2nd tasting)
Score: 93 - 91 (2nd tasting)
Region: Italy
Grape: Aglianico
Tasted: Sept 2008
ANBL UPC: 8026530000091

7 comments:

  1. We had the Tormaresca Torcicoda recntly and really liked it. Full of Cassis, leather and an earthy feel that surrounded a core of extracted cherries and dried tabacco. The best representation of Primitivo in NB now.

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  2. I've been wanting to try this since you first posted it as I quite like 'manly' reds. I picked up a bottle or two and was waiting for the right time.

    Last night my husband, recently returned from lands far away, requested a good full bodied red, so i happily pull this out. It didn't disappoint. I just loved it. Its my type of wine and if i can find more I'm going to buy more. Not cheap, but a real treat.

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  3. Brought this wine to a tasting recently and let me first say that the Aglianico grape is one of my favourites. I have had brilliant versions of this from Feudi San Gregorio Rubrato (UPC #8022888580018), Tenuta del Portale at the SAQ, and the D'Angelo from the LCBO. And what they all shared was firm tannins and dark friut mixed together with a Mocha Coffee Chocolate blend- maybe Expresso Wines. Loved them. I was excited to try the Bocca as everything on that Tomaresca line was good and as I said... I loved the grape. I took it to a very exclusive tasting and I was left disappointed. The Palate had dried spices like cloves, dried sour cherries, and a Greenish smell. The palate was sour cherries, Astringent tannins and drywall dust that dried and puckered the mouth. Completely devoid of any fruit except green, immature cherries. I think 2003 is too too young for this wine, but I don't think it has the fruit to develop in the future. I was disappointed with this as the Rubrato is so good. BTW I had the Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Serpico last year in Florida - the big Daddy of the Rubrato and it was mind-bending (available at SAQ).



    I am not going to rate it, but I am going to buy another bottle and taste it side by side with the Rubrato.

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  4. That's too bad. I really like this wine and am jealously guarding my bottles. Hope your second tasting is better.

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  5. Noticed this about the 2004 from the new Vintages release.
    TASTING NOTE: The estate's 2004 Agliancio Bocca di Lupa is a deep, dark beauty. This rich, weighty wine reveals generous dark fruit and sweet toasted oak on a taut, structured frame with outstanding persistence. It remains tight, backward and in need of at least another year of cellaring but it offers notable detail that only needs time to emerge. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Score - 91. (Antonio Galloni, www.erobertparker.com, Feb. 2008)

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  6. Tried the Bocca di Lupo last night and I will agree to some extent with most of the postings here.
    Firstly, let me say that this was my first Aglianico and I was very impressed. This is definitely a wine that can stay in the cellar and improve for at least another 3-5 years, and would probably be drinkable for close to 10 more years.
    The nose is very plasant and very italian with a very dusty and light violet bouquet. I figured this would need time to decant, so we decanted 2 hours before we planned on drinking it, however we thought we would have a sip right away to check it out. Right out of the bottle, I can see why Iron Chef said "devoid of fruit"; my comment after the first sip was was very "tannic and full, but a bit hollow from lack of fruit". It just hadn't had time to loosen up as the wine was very tight.
    2 hours later - This changed quite a bit and the full on chocolate was evident with what I found to be a hint of mature plum, but chocolate was the overriding flavour along with a bit of tar and leather. It has alot of dusty tannins that carry this feeling in your mouth for a good couple of minutes...very long finish. I am going to buy another bottle and check it out in 3-5 years. I would give it a 91-92, and a 4/5 for value.
    If you are looking for terroir, and you like those tertiary flavors, this definitely won't let you down

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  7. That tears it, I will have to buy another bottle of this.

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