Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos / Blue Label 1996

Tokaj is a town in northern Hungary, and Tokaji its sweet, white, botrytised wine. Produced beginning in the 16th century and famously prized by nobility of many countries, Tokaji was apparently so valuable to the tsars of Russia that an entire detachment of Cossacks was maintained for the purpose of escorting convoys of it from Hungary to St Petersburg. It declined in the 20th century through a combination of phylloxera epidemics and neglect during two world wars and Soviet rule. In the 1980s international investment and production resurged.

Tokaji is made primarily from the grape varieties Furmint and Hárslevelû, although four others are permitted. It is made from aszú, which are dry grapes affected with botrytis fungus (a.k.a. the "noble rot"). The grapes are placed in a wooden hod called a puttony, from which the sweet, concentrated juice drains. "5 Puttonyos" indicates how many hods of grapes go into a unit of wine, and therefore its sweetness. 5 Puttonyos is midway between the driest and sweetest types of Tokaji.

Norman picked this Tokaji up on sale for $9/bottle after the Expo in 2003 or so. It is viscous, with the rich topaz colour characteristic of Tokaji. The nose is an intense mix of raisins, spice, candied orange rind, and floral notes. On the palate, sweetness is nicely balanced with a sharp acidity. It is best served cold. We found it to be interesting for a change, and also excellent in itself. I enjoyed a small glass in lieu of dessert and felt like royalty.

250 ml
Price: This was bought at ANBL on clearance sale for approx $10. Price for the current vintage in the US is about $40 for 500ml
Score: 91
Value: 4/5
Region: Tokaj, Hungary
Grape: Furmint, Hárslevelû
UPC: no longer listed